Smorgasbord

Friends and Neighbors

    “Location, location, location” is an oft-quoted recipe for success. In the case of Bellanico on Park Boulevard in Oakland’s Glenview District, it was as if everyone in the neighborhood was waiting for a good place to hang out, eat well and drink good wine by the glass, the bottle or in several flight options. Owners Chris Shepherd and Elizabeth Frumusa already knew success, thanks to their popular San Francisco eatery Aperto (1434 18th St., 415-252-1625). This time, they transformed a former flower shop, next door to Blackberry Bistro, into a compact 40-seat Italian restaurant. Linger at the bar over a bold red or a crisp white from Italy and enjoy such starters as fried pork belly with shaved fennel ($8) or the baccala (cod) mantecato ($4). At the bar—or at a table, where you might be closer to the stranger next to you than to your date—expect local, sustainable and organic; a good variety of pasta dishes such as the spaghetti alla vongole with Manila clams ($14), and a slow-braised lamb shank ($17). Be sure to leave space for dessert.
    Bellanico, 4238 Park Blvd., (510) 336-1180, www.apertosf.com. Open for dinner 5:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Mon.–Thu., 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; lunch 11:30–2:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri.

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    When Jamie Fasanella lived on the China Hill side of Lake Merritt, she often looked for somewhere to hang out with her kids and eat light and organic. With Café 504, she’s made it happen. And sitting sipping single-origin Ritual coffee (she also serves Blue Bottle) two weeks after she opened, a steady stream of passersby popped in to thank her for opening in the chiefly residential neighborhood. Fasanella and her husband, Kevin, created the interior using sustainable material all the way from the concrete countertops and grass-board counters to the bamboo chairs. Each cup of coffee is made to order, all the way from the grinding of fresh beans. She makes fresh muffins and fresh muesli daily, serves poached eggs on toast ($5) and is planning a selection of sandwiches. The space offers free Wi-Fi and serves as a gallery for local artists.
    Café 504, 504 Wesley Ave., (510) 922-8785. Open 7 a.m.–3 p.m. Mon.–Fri., 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Sat.-Sun.

—By Wanda Hennig

—Photography by Lori Eanes