Smorgasbord

Belgian Brews and African Stews

    There must be loads of full-blooded American beer lovers who would actually prefer their favorite beverage not be chilled to extinction. But where are they? For sure, not bellying up to your average Bay Area bar where the concept of anything less than arctic is met with a derisive “That’s so English.” Even the best brewpubs seem stuck on Bud-cold. (And yes, bland beer does need to be chilled.) But with the opening of The Trappist in Old Oakland, things are changing. Co-owners Aaron Porter (really!) and Chuck Stilphen are committed to pouring specialty beer from fine artisan brewers—“served properly at the correct temperature and in the correct glass.” They offer 120 bottled microbrews from Belgium, Holland, France and the United States, plus a rotating selection of 15 beers on tap. To visit their compact European-style pub—where the challenge is to squeeze through the crowds and get a place at the bar—is to get an education in beer drinking. The choices are introduced with a description that includes the alcohol content. Glasses come in many shapes and sizes. And if you want to snack with your beer, you can order a cheese plate ($8). Not into beer? Check out the short wine list.
    The Trappist, 460 Eighth St., open 4 p.m. “till late” Wed.–Fri., 2 p.m. “till late” Sat.-Sun. (510) 238-8900, www.thetrappist.com.


Lagosia brings the flavors of Nigeria to Berkeley. Frejon ($6.95), a sweet and savory black bean soup with a hint of coconut is, according to chef and co-owner Kofo Domingo, a special-occasion food in the country of her birth; it takes nine hours to cook. Hearty stews abound. The efo ($15.95) blends spinach, tomatoes and spices; have it vegetarian or with beef, chicken or goat meat. The egusi (melon seed stew, $15.95) is another Nigerian specialty. For an extra $2 get a side dish of Lagosia’s iyan (pounded-yam dumpling) or the eba (grated-cassava dumpling), both authentic African alternatives to rice or potato.
    Lagosia, 1725 University Ave., lunch 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Tue.–Fri.; dinner 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Tue.–Sat., 5 p.m.–9 p.m. Sun. (510) 540-8833, www.lagosia.com.